Where Does This Road Lead? (Part 2)

"When you get lost, the adventure begins." That was what Marie said when we left the concrete road for the dirty, unused and ungraveled one-lane track in the middle of nowhere. It was actually a secondary road, not even asphalted, but we were pacified by the intermitent sightings of the municipal distance markers along the way. Other than those, nothing could be seen except nipa houses and a few people walking. Nothing except the mountains in the distance and grass. Nothing except more road up ahead.

We were aware that we had somehow slipped into Muslim country and were being extra cautious with our actions. I don't know about the others but getting kidnapped or ambushed never crossed my mind. What DID make my heart stop a few times was imagining we were driving along this lane and then running out of gas. Or the van would stall and we would have to spend the night there. Or having to walk the rest of the way in the dark. But kidnapping? Nah! Who would kidnap us? We were just a bunch of ordinary people, not to mention the senior citizens, off to a city unknown to see the sights and to learn how to make some money. But this was one of the few times I really thanked God I made Edgar come along.

Because we had been driving for some time and not coming to anything, we decided to ask directions from a group of women dressed in going-out clothes. It looked like they were from a religious group making the rounds. But though we asked in Tagalog and Visayan, they did not seem to understand anything we said. It was even apparent that they were afraid of us. So on we went. Finally, we came upon a man standing at the edge of the road and were able to get somewhat better instructions--- just keep going until we reach the rotonda, then turn left. What he failed to mention, as most of the people we'd asked earlier, was HOW FAR the turn would be from where we were. In the end, the actual "highway" was so much further on, but what came in between was certainly an eye-opener for everyone.

The dirt track ended but in its place came an on-and-off concrete road with marshlands on both sides. We thought it was a lake with a road built in the middle, but we learned later that that place, called Lituasan Marshlands, was the depressed area of Maguindanao. We saw houses made of nipa and straw, about 5-10 feet square, standing on thin wooden stilts, with plywood as flooring, lining the concrete. Most of them were rotting on the bottom, and all were open (no doors or locks). Single windows graced the rear walls. From the road, we could see sparce belongings inside--- mats, blankets, plates, pails, buckets, a comb. Children, half-naked and naked, played in front of the houses while adults (if you could call those young women and men carrying babies) talked with each other. Some would watch as we passed by, but mostly we were ignored. Then, as suddenly as they had appeared, the poor houses disappeared and the road widened to accomodate six lanes. Suddenly, before our astonished eyes, was a partially developed city center complete with gas station and market place. And, before I could catch my breath, we were passing two high-walled compounds, both with buildings under construction. How high? Oh, about 30 feet high. What made them astounding? The mansions inside had roofs higher than the wall. Toto, our driver, enlightened us that those were the houses owned by the Datu, or royal families.

Now THAT is what you call the rich and the poor. I guess the "in-betweens" are the Muslims who migrated to Cagayan de Oro. And coincidentally, the town was called Datu Ampatuan, run by Governor Ampatuan and his son, Vice Governor Ampatuan. Coincidence?

At last, we found the Rotonda, a large blue marker with Islamic writing, but no road signs. As usual. We turned left and drove on through Sharif Aguak, Datu Abdulah Sangki, (Maguindanao) and into Esperanza and Isulan (Sultan Kudarat). After reaching yet another Rotonda, we finally confirmed that we had indeed gotten lost. Vinny insisted we take the road to Tacurong and after verifying it with a store owner, that is what we did. We arrived in General Santos City at 7:00pm, having breathed a collective sigh of relief when the roads carried cars, vans, trucks and whatnot from the opposite direction. And with cities and towns and PEOPLE--- Tacurong City (Sultan Kudarat), Koronadal City (formerly Marbel), Tupi and Polomolok (South Cotabato)--- we knew that we were now safe. Delayed by two hours, but safe.

(end Part Two)